If you’re a fan of polar bears, few bucket list items come bigger than the opportunity to visit Churchill during bear season. Every year in October and November, Churchill’s population swells from 900 to several thousand as tourists flock to the shores of Hudson Bay, hoping to catch a glimpse of bears passing through and around town on their way to the tundra as they wait for sea ice to form on the bay’s surface.
But why Churchill? Of all the places that polar bears could congregate, why pick this former fur trading post, now the site of Canada’s most northerly passenger railway station and its only Arctic seaport?
The answer, says Geoff York, Polar Bears International’s senior director of research and policy, “is a combination of physical oceanography and geography.” Hudson Bay is one of the few places in the polar bears’ range where the ice melts completely each year, forcing all the bears in the area to come ashore during the summer months. The counterclockwise pattern of currents in the bay deposits melting ice along the southern coast of the bay, which is where bears generally come ashore, many of them holing up in earthen dens as they rest for the next several months.
Churchill sits in the bay’s southwest corner, on the northern coast of a promontory that sticks out like a snaggletooth; when the ice forms again, those same currents deposit ice floes along the protruding shore and cause them to pile up. Additionally, the area also experiences an early freeze-up because the Churchill, Nelson, and Hayes Rivers empty freshwater – which freezes at a higher temperature than saltwater – into the shallow coastal waters. The result is an early-season accumulation of ice that attracts bears, hungry after months of fasting and searching for a seal smorgasbord.